The Great Wall was amazing just make sure when you go you bring some drinking water and good walking shoes. The wall is VERY steep.
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Man Man Zho - Chinese Whispers   

"Man, man - zho! Man, man -zho!" I chant to myself as I make slow but steady progress up and down the Great Wall of China. My Wall mantra keeps me moving so that I can conquer the ten-kilometre hike from Simatai to Jingshanling. The literal translation is "slow, slow - go!" and it works like a charm.

 

My journey to the Wall began the previous day when the group I'm travelling with leaves the concrete confines of Beijing for an overnight trip to one of the greatest wonders of the world. We begin the three-hour northwards journey late in the morning, stopping for lunch in a settlement roughly the size of Bloemfontein but with ten times the population.

 

Over 1.3 billion people live in China so when they build, the Chinese use the land to its full capacity. And this place is no different. While not as imposing or crowded as Beijing (home to nearly 20 million people), the hallmarks of non-stop growth are evident.

 

We arrive at Simatai in the late afternoon. I've managed a few glimpses of the Wall during our drive but nothing really prepares me for the first real view. It is quite simply beautiful and yet somewhat surreal.

 

It is an unusually clear afternoon, throughout our trip to China we've seen more pollution than I care to remember, so when I get my first proper sighting it is made all the more wonderful. Resting atop the undulating mountains that border of China and Mongolia lies a wondrous feat of human engineering.

 

The Wall is old and imposing. A series of stone and earthen buildings that were built between the 5^th and 16^th Centuries to protect China's northern borders from raiding Mongol hordes. It is a handsome, albeit irregular, construction of brick, stone, wood and mud along the mountainous paths and open plains. Built using the natural materials found in the area some parts of the Wall have faded into nothingness over time. But some sections, like the Simitai-Jinshanling Wall are fairly well preserved.

 

We drop our overnight bags and head straight to the pathway signaling the start. I've been looking forward to this moment since I arrived in China.  "I can do this," I tell myself. It's just a little half-hour walk up to the Wall. A slight incline, a few steps...

 

After a couple of really steep inclines and loads of stairs my thoughts are turning to "Can I do this?" We have a 10 km hike planned for the next morning and my self-doubt grows with every upward step. To make matters worse my fellow (fitter) work colleagues pass me by - looking very fresh and frisky.

 

But once I reach the top I realize that the aching calves, red face and breathlessness are worth it. I have reached the top and what a view! The Wall is incredible and the feeling you have as you're standing on this piece of history is almost indescribable.

 

Broken bits of Wall make for uneasy walking, the ramparts are missing a roof, and the inclination of the steps is so steep you almost feel as though you are climbing a ladder. But what a view.

 

Our group enjoys a surprise birthday party for a colleague in a broken rampart on the Wall, complete with cake, cheese, biscuits, nuts, chocolate and the 'piece de resistance': a local 1998 Great Wall Cabernet Sauvignon. Photo opportunities abound, especially when a group of farmers make their appearance - with bags of kitch tourist knick-knacks in tow.

 

The farmers try to peddle themselves off as genuine Mongolians. Ordinarily this would be of interest to travellers as this is proof that the reason the Wall was built (to keep the raiding Mongolians out) failed miserably. But our Chinese tour leader, James, quickly dispels this notion. They are no more Mongolian than you and I, and quickly earn themselves the nickname of 'non-golians'.

 

Sadly the farmers no longer farm, as they can make more money peddling postcards and replicas of the Wall to tourists. I buy a few postcards and our group shares the birthday cake with them.

 

As the sun goes down we head back to our lodgings. Going down is so much easier - a pleasant thought given tomorrows pending hike. As there are many steep ups on the hike, there are lots of downs. I can do this!

 

We are staying at a back-packer/youth hostel at the foot of the mountains. It is basic but clean. The hostel is set in a square with the restaurant bordering one side, rooms on the other and a courtyard in the middle. It is here that we get to enjoy some Chinese Firewater. At 56% alcohol it is mean with a capital 'M'! It smells like Tequila, tastes like Tequila and kicks like a mule on steroids - a vile drink. Not the sort of beverage you'd want to overindulge in with a ten kilometer Great Wall hike planned for the next day. So I head off to bed, falling asleep to the sounds of the merry revelry only Firewater can cause.

 

                                       ------0------

Morning arrives and with it a sensible no Firewater hangover - the Wall awaits...

 

The first glimpse of dawn creeps over the Wall. Slathered in sunscreen and armed with enough water to keep a Mongol horde going through the Gobi Desert we begin our upward trek.

 

"Man, man - zho!" Stacey, our Wall guide, is behind me, encouraging me every step of the way. You don't need to be super fit to tackle a hike on the Wall but a certain level of fitness will make it easier.

 

The Wall may have failed as a defense mechanism but it was a very effective communication tool. The game 'chinese whispers' or 'broken telephone' is said to have originated when soldiers stationed on the Wall passed on messages from one rampart to the next.  By sending a runner along the Wall army units would be warned of enemy movements and be able to call for reinforcements. These watch towers were also used to send smoke signals, house troops and store weapons.

 

The Simatai- Jingshanling section is beautifully deserted. We have this man-made wonder all to ourselves. It is quiet, and quite breathtaking. The air is fresh and burns my lungs. I scale the highest highs (with effort) to be rewarded with an equally steep descent, which gives a little respite. The downside though (or should that be up) - is what goes up, must come down, and go up, and then come down. The Wall snakes across the landscape like an endless, lazy dragon.

 

Man, man - zho! Onwards I go.

 

The Chinese say that you haven't been to China if you haven't walked the Wall. Once you have accomplished this you are a "hero of the Wall". I am in awe. I have travelled nearly 15 000 km's to be here. I soak up the moment, taking in as much as I can because I know that I may never have this opportunity again.

 

The end is in sight, along with hundreds of Chinese day-trippers. It is a public holiday in China today, so many journey out to the Wall. This also explains the lack of pollution and almost blue skies. But that aside I have made it. I feel relief and joy. I am truly proud of myself.

 

I am a hero of the Wall.

 

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INTRODUCING Hangzhou to visitors, Chinese guides inevitably quote the popular expression, "Above there is heaven, below there are Hangzhou and Suzhou."  Hangzhou's "heavenly" beauty attracts hundreds of thousands of tourists - Chinese as well as foreign - to   its exquisite Xi Hu (West Lake) vicinity each year, to enjoy the placid lake, beautiful gardens, reflecting pools, lavish temples, and friendly lakeside teahouses.  Although West Lake is the main attraction, the graceful city of Hangzhou itself is also well worth a visit.

The capital of Zhejiang Province and a prosperous industrial and agricultural centre, Hangzhou is situated on the Qiantang River at the southern end of the Grand Canal. It occupies an area of 429 sq. km. (166 sq. mi.) with a population of about 1 million.

 

Hangzhou in History

According to legend, the great King Yu, who harnessed China's river systems and thereby succeeded in controlling floods, is supposed to have come here in 2198 BC - hence Hangzhou's original name, Yuhang, which means, "the place of the boat landing of Yu."  But it was the extension of the Grand Canal southward from the Yangtse River late in the 6th century AD that transformed Hangzhou from a sleepy fishing village to a bustling commercial centre. The first city walls were built in 606 by Yang Suo, who also gave the city its present name.

Hangzhou's continued growth was assured as the fertile lower Yangtse Valley supplanted the North China Plain as the country's prime agricultural region. Between the 8th and 12th centuries, it was the capital of several kingdoms and dynasties. Although the city was devastated by the Mongol invasion of the late 13th century, its importance did not diminish. Its role as a trade centre and the splendor of its religious monuments continued to attract merchants and visitors from all over the world (including Marco Polo).

Hangzhou's political and commercial significance was dramatically curtailed in the mid-19th century as a result of the Taiping Rebellion. Much of the city was reduced to ashes, many of its most venerable religious structures were damaged or destroyed, and thousands of its inhabitants were killed in the course of the ensuing turmoil.

The local guides take pride in pointing out that the city has been virtually rebuilt since 1949. Until then, it had only a few small factories and one cotton textile mill. After 1958, capital construction began on a massive scale. Today, old, crowded houses are overshadowed by newly constructed apartment buildings. As the Chinese say, "the city has taken on a new look," but the downtown shopping area retains its traditional charm.

 

Economy and Culture

Although industry came relatively late to Hangzhou, the pace of progress has been rapid. Before 1949, the estimated size of the workforce for the 33 small-scale and one large factory was 5,000.  The city now boasts an iron and steel mill, machine tool factories, petrochemical and oil refining facilities, and an electronics indus­try.  The Xinan River Hydroelectric Power Station, situated on the upper reaches of the Qiantang River, has a capacity of 650,000 kw.  Power generators, light trucks, and small tractors are also manufactured in Hang­zhou.

Hangzhou's silk industry, established in the 7th century, is famous throughout China. Green Longjing (Dragon Well) tea, produced at the West Lake People's Commune, is considered to be one of China's finest varieties. Important crops raised in the rural areas surrounding Hangzhou include bamboo, wheat, barley, rice, cotton, and sweet potatoes, in addi­tion to silkworms and tea leaves.

 

Highlights for Travellers

Silk Factories. Zhejiang Province's extensive tracts of mulberry trees supply the filatures of Hangzhou with China's finest quality silkworm co­coons. In order to watch the process of manufacturing silk and its products, visitors are invited to visit one of Hangzhou's major silk complexes. Workers engage in the various stages of production from reeling silk fibre off the cocoons to printing designs on the finished fabric. Silk is produced both for export throughout the world and for domestic consumption.  Workers in other factories design and weave brocade tablecloths, bedspreads, sofa covers, and wall hangings.  These are popular with tourists and are purchased as souvenirs and for gifts in Friendship stores across the country.  The exclusive, renowned Longjing (Dragon Well) tea also comes from this region. Three crops are harvested annually, in the Spring, Summer and Autumn, but the Spring leaves are considered to be the most delicate. Depending on the season, visitors are occasionally invited to try their hand at tea-leaf picking. Drying, formerly done over burning firewood, has been modernized with the introduction of drying machines. However, the highest quality Longjing tea leaves are still processed by hand.

Hangzhou Zoo.  Hangzhou's new zoo was completed in 1975 and features skillful re-creations of natural environments that house more than 100 kinds of animals and birds. Among them are giant pandas, gold-striped and black-leaf monkeys, and Manchurian tigers.

 

West Lake

The focal point of a visit to Hangzhou is West Lake, an area of striking beauty. Originally a shallow bay adjoining the Qiantang River, it was gradually transformed into an inland lake by the silting-up of the outlet.

The first dike was built in 821 AD by Bai Juyi. About 1090 AD, the poet Su Dongpo (1037-1101), who served as the prefect of Hangzhou during the Northern Song Dynasty (960-1127), had the lake bottom dredged and created some formal gardens along the shore. He also had a second dike built along the western margin. These two dikes, the Bai and the Su, still stand today, and serve to divide the lake into three parts.

After 1130 AD, West Lake became the residence of the Southern Song emperors. The great Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) emperors Kang Xi and Qian Long expanded the lake to its present proportions. They loved the area so much that they built 'Hangzhou-style' pavilions and temples all over northern China.  Beijing and Chengde both have good examples of this architectural influence.

There are four islands on West Lake, the largest of which is Gu Shan (Solitary Hill), in the northwest.

North Shore

Solitary Hill (Gu Shan) Island.  Linked to the north shore by a bridge and to the east shore by the willow and peach tree lined Bai Juyi Cause­way, the island was originally landscaped during the Tang Dynasty (618-907), when its first pavilion was built.  Its name is misleading, for the island has become a favorite spot for visitors. The famous Autumn Moon and Calm Lake Pavilion, used as a study retreat by the Qing emperor Kang Xi (r.1662-1722), derives its name from its striking appearance in the clear and silvery moonlight of autumn. Other places of interest on Gu Shan include the Crane Pavilion, the Zhejiang Provincial Museum (consisting of a small botanical garden and exhibits on physical geography, popular arts, and history), the Seal Engravers Club, and the Zhejiang Library.  Additions since 1949 include the Octagonal and Quadrangular pavilions.

Lotus in the Breeze at the Crooked Courtyard.  This poetic name refers to a modern pavilion and small park directly facing the Hangzhou Hotel.

West Shore

Su Dongpo Causeway. This north-south causeway, the lake's largest, has six curved bridges (Crossing the Rainbows, Dongpo, Suppressing Dike, Viewing Hills, Locking Waves, and Reflecting Waves).  It was named after the famous poet-governor, Su Dongpo, who ruled Hangzhou in the 11th century.

Viewing Fish at Flower Harbor (Huagang Guanyu). This site is located on the southwestem shore where a small creek formerly emptied into the lake. During the Qing Dynasty, a pavilion was built on the south side and fish were stocked in an artificial pond. The area has since been enlarged and several lotus ponds have been added.

South Shore

Three Pools that Mirror the Moon (Santanyinyue). This second largest island in the lake is really a series of circular embankments, creating the impression of a 'lake within lakes'.  It is landscaped in typical Chinese style with the Nine-Bend Bridge (actually bent in a series of right angles) linking the islets. There are many small pavilions, terraces, display rocks, and flower beds.  Its covered walkways are punctuated by circular windows, each providing a different perspective on the surrounding landscape.

Originally the island was called the 'Pond for the Preservation of Life' and a monastery was built upon it.  When the poet Su Dongpo was commissioned to dredge and improve the lake there were three deep pits here thought to be occupied by evil spirits.   He had a pagoda built over each pit to lock in the spirits so that boats could pass without fear.  Each pagoda has four parts: the base, the body, the cap, and a gourd-shaped top with five openings. On moonlit nights the openings are sealed with thin paper and candles are burnt inside the top. The reflection on the lake gives the illusion that many moons are dancing upon the water - hence the island's name.

 

East Shore

The eastern shore of the lake boasts a number of parks (Qingha, Children's. Liulangwenying and Hubin), with the China Liberation Memorial as the centerpiece. Excursion boats leave from here and rowboats may be rented.

 

The West Lake Vicinity

Precious Stone Hill (Baoshi Shan).  This is the most prominent hill on the north side of the lake, with an altitude of 200m. (656 ft.).  The hill is famous for its oddly shaped boulders, the inspiration for an assortment of legends. A prehistoric cave, Chuanqing, contains stone furniture and a seven­ storey pagoda originally erected in the 10th century and rebuilt in 1933.

Geling Hill.  At the summit of this hill, which rises just behind the Hangzhou Hotel, is the Early Sun Terrace where one can enjoy not only ­a fine sight of the sunrise but the best panorama of the lake and the city of Hangzhou.

Purple Cloud Cave (Ziyundong).  Of the five caves on the 'Moun­tain on Which Clouds Stay' (Qixia Shan), this one is a favorite place for picnics. The site is surrounded by peach trees and provides a splendid view.

Monastery of the Spirits' Retreat (Lingyin Si).  This Buddhist tem­ple, founded by the monk Wei Li in 326 AD, is the best-known monastery in Hangzhou. It contains two main halls - the 'Hall of the Four Major Protectors' and the 'Great Buddha Hall'.

Inside the first hall is a 200-year-old Maitreya Buddha.  At the back, facing out toward the main hall, is a statue of Weituo, chief guardian of the Buddha, carved from the trunk of a camphor tree.  It was completed during the Southern Song Dynasty (1127-1279 AD).  In the main hall itself stands a 19m. (61.8 ft.) camphorwood statue of Sakyamuni, the founder of Buddhism.  The same room contains a group sculpture called 'Fairy Island', composed of about 150 images. The stone towers flanking the entrance of the main hall contain the Buddhist sutras, which date from the 10th century.

Facing the Lingyin Si monastery is the 219m. (711 ft.) hill known as 'The Peak That Flew from Afar'.  Its slopes and caves are covered with 330 stone carvings from the Five Dynasties period, the Song Dynasty, and the Yuan Dynasty (907-1368).  They are the most famous ancient stone carvings south of the Yangste River.

Six Harmonies Pagoda (Liuhe Ta).  This pagoda is located at the top of Yuelu Hill, on the north bank of the Qiantang River.  Originally built in 970 AD, it was thought that its cosmic force would deflect the huge waves of the powerful tidal bore brought on by the full moon.  It also served as a lighthouse for river traffic.  Its name refers to the six codes of Buddhism: to observe the harmony of body, of speech, and of thoughts, to abstain from temptation, from uttering opinions, and from accumulating wealth.

      The octagonal structure, 60 m. (196 ft.) high appears from the outside to have 13 storeys and from the inside only seven.  It is uniquely constructed of a combination of brick and wood. The exterior, which had deteriorated badly since the 17th century, was rebuilt during 1893-1901. The pagoda was repaired and renovated in 1953 and again in 1970.

      Tomb of Yue Fei.  Yue Fei was a famous Song Dynasty (960-1279) general who defended China against northern invaders.  His tomb, built at the spot where he was executed, was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution, but restoration began in 1978.  The first phase of the restoration project included the tomb itself, the memorial hall, the pavilion sheltering the pine stump where Yue Fei was beheaded, and a gallery of stone carvings.

      Nanping Hill.  Built during the Qing Dynasty, the Jingci Temple of Nanping Hill overlooks the south shore of West Lake.  Its ceiling contains elaborate paintings of cranes and the rooftop is adorned with flying dragons.  Just opposite the temple's main entrance are the remains of the Lei Feng Pagoda - the scene of a fairy-tale romance of a scholar and a white snake.

      Yanxia Mountain.  A number of caves are located on the sides of this hill, including the Yanxia, the Shuile, and the Shi Hu.

Cuisine

 

Given West Lake's prominence as a resort, the chefs of the area have succeeded in elevating the level of the local cuisine to a high standard. A nutritious local vegetable, xuancai, is one of the noted products of Hangzhou.  Combined in a soup with lake perch, it becomes a delicacy.  It is said that the ancient emperors received this dish as a special tribute from the local populace.  Sweet-and-sour fish, snow-white shrimps cooked with Longjing tea, and stewed duck tongues are also specialties of the region, as is the honeyed ham.  Plain noodles are served with fried shrimp and eel, and there is an exotic noodle dish called 'cat's ears'.  Other local dishes include steamed rice with lotus leaves, cassia and maize soups, and assorted pastries.

An outstanding feature of all Hangzhou dishes is the utter freshness of the ingredients. Stewed bamboo shoots or fried fish with spring shoots, for example, are traditionally prepared immediately after the shoots are dug out of the ground and the fish caught from the pond.

For fresh West Lake fish, crispy fried prawns, and other local dishes the scenic Louwailou Restaurant located on the Juyi Causeway at the southeast comer of Gu Shan Island has always had a good reputation.    Hangzhou-style duck in soy sauce (Hangzhou jiangya) is a specialty of the Tianxiang Lou Restaurant, located in town and exotic dishes of snake  meat and delicate platters such as beef in oyster sauce are prepared at the Yanan Restaurant.

 

Shopping

Artisans maintain high standards befitting the reputation of the region.  Most famous are silk-weavings of local scenes. Bright colors and delicate handwork characterize Hangzhou embroidery.  When purchased locally, it is remarkably inexpensive.  Chinese visitors favor the local silk umbrellas and parasols, which resemble stalks of bamboo when closed, but reveal painted scenes when opened.  Hangzhou fans are also renowned.  Most are made of sandalwood, but other materials include ivory, turtle shell, mahogany, chicken feathers, bamboo and coral. The overlay is either paper or silk.  In keeping with local artisan traditions, even common household items produced in Hangzhou, such as scissors and chopsticks, carry some distinction.

Tea lovers will appreciate the green tea (Longjing), as well as the famous chrysanthemum tea, which is prized as a digestive aid.

In downtown Hangzhou there are several stores selling antiques, scrolls and silk hangings - all of interest to visitors.
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