Sad to say that when Christopher Columbus first stumbled across the island of Hispaniola in 1492 he little realised that it would become divided into two distinct Republics, half of its lush landscape headed for criminal and political strife. The Republic of Haiti, once known as 'the pearl of the Caribbean', shares this island with the Dominican Republic, but it seems the two countries are worlds apart. One is a tourism magnet, the other largely a pariah where only the brave set foot. Haiti is a fascinating country, its people friendly and energetic, but a combination of crime, civil disturbance and a mysterious voodoo religion have left most of it high and dry on the world tourism map. It was one of France's richest colonies, but today Haiti languishes as one of the world's poorest nations, its politics descended into chaos, its natural resources plundered, and corruption and crime rife. Anyone brave enough to do without modern infrastructure, and brave the risk of robbery or kidnapping, will find though that Haiti offers a fresh horizon for adventurers with its exotic scenery and vibrant culture. Haiti is trying to recover from its past, and is intent on re-creating its attractive face for world tourism, using lures like its beautiful beaches, untamed forests, passionate and humorous population, jazz-like local music, delicious African, Creole and Latin American cuisine, and pretty towns like Jacmel with its gingerbread houses. The fact that dozens of sleek cruise liners still visit a corner of Haiti is proof that there is light in the darkness. The glittering white liners head out from Miami, USA, to disgorge passengers on day visits to the cordoned off port of Labadee, adjacent to Haiti's colourful city of Cap-Haitien, on a bay on the northern coast. Here visitors are assured of their safety as they shop for souvenirs, sample local cuisine and generally enjoy themselves. Haiti is intent on recovery in all areas, and tourism is the best way to achieve this. Independent travellers, who are courageous enough to eschew the warnings, will no doubt discover the delights that Haiti has to offer.